Discovery of the Caucasus

The capital, Tiblissi alone is very representative of the cultural mixture that animates this former republic of the Soviet Union. A mixture of rather special genres where beautiful old churches oppose modern buildings, and where the Soviet influence constantly sidesteps the will of a part of the population to turn to Europe and the West, to the image of one of the largest boulevards of the capital, which bears the surprising name of George Bush in tribute to the former US President. An antagonism that we will find elsewhere throughout our trip to the local population that we meet throughout our trip. Sharp opinions and strong cultural oppositions will be the backdrop for this 15-day bike trip across the Caucasus.

On the program, the discovery of different regions of Georgia and trails that cross the entire chain of mountains with the highest peaks around 5'000 meters above sea level and a multitude of massive glaciers that offer superb scenery.

Hardly have we left Tiblissi and its obvious modernity, that we find ourselves quickly in a much more rural environment. The roads turn into tracks as we sink into the valleys and this first transfer begins to reveal succulent waves of adventure. If the distances that separate us from our goals are rather short on the map, it is quite another once driving. The condition of some roads is rather far from our standards, and the exposure of some passages of collar has nothing to envy to our most committed mountain bike trails. The commemorative plaques of those whose fate has not left the chance to end their journey is not reassuring either.

Fortunately for us, the transfer goes well and we finally arrived at our house safe and sound, a modest country house in the middle of a remote hamlet, run by a friendly old lady with marked features with whom we will have not managed to exchange much, but that we will have clearly regaled with delicious dishes of the traditional local cuisine.

The bikes are finally mounted, and we put on our equipment, ready to fight with the Georgian trails. This first test will be a crossing of pass over two days forcing us to clutter with a slight weight of gear to ensure our two days of autonomy. We start with a long climb towards a pass at 3'400 meters above sea level. We alternate portage and pedaling to follow our path, which runs along beautiful valleys that are discovered to us as we ascend.

Accustomed to the Swiss Alps, the terrain is not completely unknown to us, but the wild side and total isolation in which we live is clearly new. The only people we will meet are the border guards who will make sure that we stay on the right side of the border during our crossing, since we will go along the Russian border and that the tensions between these two countries still remain today. palpable. Control at this checkpoint is going well and these Georgian soldiers are friendly, even trying to get on our bikes ... obviously our Banshee solids are flying less easily than a Russian tank.

The sun beats hard during the summer, and we are delighted to have planned some water purification capsules to replenish the liquid in the streams of clear water that cross the roads. To keep pace and carry 30 kilos of our bike & matos set under this crushing sun, our body consumes easily 5 liters of water on average. Fortunately, the horseflies are also there to help us keep pace. Here, these insects are the size of big bumblebees and their bites are really unpleasant, especially since they have an unfortunate tendency to revel in our blood even through our jerseys or socks. And yes, the exloration and scouting are never a sinecure and there, the principle of learning by doing applies more than ever in our Georgian expedition.

Our ascent is coming to an end as the afternoon ends. Arrived at the summit of the coveted pass, we can finally go down the bicycles of our shoulders to breathe and admire the exceptional 360-degree scenery, an impressive mix between the Alps and the Dolomites that we use as time to equip us to finally plunge dand the other side, via a magnificent tril that unfolds as far as the eye can see in the middle of a shale slope totally devoid of any vegetation. This trail is player wish and from the first laces, we have already forgotten the long climb just before.

The light becomes grazing, and we take advantage of the last rays to make some pictures before choosing a spot to plant our tents. A small natural lookout with an open view of the trail that awaits us tomorrow will clearly do the trick. The heat of the day gradually gives way to the freshness that we can inevitably expect in the evening at 2'800 meters. We tapped our rations sparingly to regain our strength, and after allowing ourselves to observe the richly starry sky in the middle of this place devoid of all light pollution, we buckle the zip of our tent for a well deserved rest.

The next day, we are more impatient than ever to go back on the saddle, galvanized by this first day certainly trying, but really superb and in total adequacy with what must be a real trip MTB. This day, we will follow a long trail that travels along a river. Mostly downhill, it offers some short pedaling areas without affecting the flowy side of the trail. The biggest challenge will be to cross rivers with high flow and the icy water that comes from the peaks and that make our legs two red baramines at each crossing ... an excellent remedy to improve blood circulation for sure. The landscapes are rather similar to those encountered the day before and globally to those we will cross every day to come, except that there is always a peak more monstrous and atypical than others who will be able to detach from the mountains. Wildlife is not left out, and it is not uncommon to see huge birds of prey enjoy the thermals to glean their next prey. To this, still no sign of life, except here and there an isolated shepherd with whom the conversations are always limited to a smile and a small wave of the hand.

This trail is a real small nugget in its entirety and we are delighted with this first experience, as much as reassured to have been able to make this good choice with only a few Google Earth information and a card that could as much have offered us 70kms of pure galley. Our evening meal is run by a family whose three generations live side by side. We even have the chance to finally be able to exchange a little bit, in an approximate English course, but enough to understand that here there is neither running water, nor electricity, if not a small set of solar panels that strongly limits any technological extravagance. But frankly, who could miss it in such a natural and preserved environment?
We arrive enough to understand us with the owner of the place that she offers us the help of cousins to make available a few horses to relieve the rise of the program of the next day. Suffice to say that the offer has not fallen on deaf ears, and it is not the few extra dollars that we will cost this little luxury that will make us back.

The next day will finally be like every day that will follow. A succession of mountain bikes unparalleled. The trails are incredibly flow, the scenery is sumptuous and preserved, with an added authenticity and wild side unparalleled. We will have benefited from an almost perfect weather throughout the trip, in the west of the country as in the east.

Our trip has given us a breathtaking view of Mount Uchab the "Caucasian Matterhorn", as well as Mount Kazbek which dominate the two main regions of our long road trip.

A bad fall on the last day will even allow us to test the relative effectiveness of local emergencies ... to get back in place a shoulder dislocated by a doctor in Hawaiian shirt and whose slightly alcoholic breath is enough for her to anesthetize you will remain an unforgettable memory.